CCH Aliens Tested

Jeff Fasset and I just finished some impromptu testing of CCH Aliens in actual rock placements. The cams ranged in size and age (both pre and post recall). We yanked on them using a car - and while we don't have a dynamometer (yet) I can tell you that the force was much greater than what you'd get in a typical climbing fall: the car was often yanked backward, the knots in the climbing rope were completely impossible to untie, and the 31-kN carabiner we were using was deformed.

Disclaimers

1) Our goal is simply to report some positive results about CCH Aliens, as they've been getting a lot of negative publicity lately.
2) This is an IMPROMPTU, limited, quick test. We don't equate this with repeatable, controlled, statistically analyzed tests of a representative sample of aliens.
3) Without a dynamometer, we can't measure the exact force we placed on the cams. We were able to make some ESTIMATES of these forces based on the speed and mass of the car and the time taken to reverse it's direction.

Initial results

With that said, here's the bottom line: the cams we tested performed very well. There were no cable or brazing failures. In all cases where we pulled to failure, the ROCK failed before the cams did.

Short description of tests

On day 1, we completed non-destructive tests on brand-new aliens. The cams were pulled with an estimated 1000-2000 pounds using the car and 30 feet of dynamic line. None of the cams failed, nor did the rock in which the cams were placed. Other than marks on the cam lobes, the cams appeared completely normal after the tests.

On day 2, we decided to pull test a second set of aliens to failure. We pulled with an estimated 3000-5000 pounds using the car and 30 feet of dynamic line. In every case, it appeared the rock blew apart and the cams inverted as they were ripped out. The rock appeared to be good quality granite ... examine the photos and see what you think. (Jeff, who has 25 years climbing experience, 15 years guiding experience, and climbs hundreds of days per year, felt that the quality of the rock was good - perhaps a 7 on a scale of 1-10). With regards to the aliens, the cables were all twisted up, the lobes badly deformed, and the loops pulled into wild shapes - but NO brazing failures, NO cable failure. Just lots of rock dust.

Photos and Video

As time allows, we'll get a dynamometer and do some more controlled tests for those of you who like precision. In the mean time, you can look at the photos and video below:

See the all of the original, full-resolution photos at http://www.geir.com/aliens/

Jeff's analysis after destructive tests

Pull test in action

Synopsis from Jeff

Non-destructive test on new alien (estimate 1000-2000 pounds of force)

Examples of placements prior to pull testing

Our "pull test unit" (aka car). Estimates of the force applied were made using the speed and mass of the car, and the time required to reverse it's direction when pulled backward.

Examples from the destructive tests. Note the 31-kN carabiner was deformed. No brazing or cable failures were noted.