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(5.10a Standard)
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Toofast's Topos: Cochise Stronghold topos from a climbing dog
That's right - a dog that draws topos!
Finding information about Cochise Stronghold is rather
difficult. As guidebooks have gone out of print and hundreds of new
routes have been added, there has been growing need for an updated
guidebook.
This page is part of the solution to this need. Each topo
on this page is carefully drawn after climbing the route multiple times
and meticulously documenting it. They are constantly updated and improved.
Toofast's Topos are the definitive dog-authored topos for Cochise Stronghold.
Eventually, all of these topos will be consolidated into a guidebook for the Stronghold. While we're at work on this, all of the topos we produce will be available on this site.
Current count: over 15,200 downloads containing over 33,400 multipitch route toposTwo years over. Holy cow, this thing has taken on more momentum than I thought possible.
We've had 15,200 downloads as of 1/1/2010. Some of these downloads have a single multipitch topo,
while others have up to five multipitch routes detailed on one large
topo. The total number of multiptich topo downloads is now over 33,400! The massive popularity of these topos
have been a huge encouragement and pushed us to work harder toward our
goal of a printed guidebook.
The goal for the first printed guidebook will be 100 of the best multipitch routes in Cochise Stronghold. This is
obviously a huge task ... it will take a tremendous amount of time to
document each of the climbs to the level of detail and accuracy that
folks have come to expect from these topos. As this process
continues, we'll be posting completed topos on this website for your
enjoyment.
We're
also utilizing Google Earth to help with driving
and approach directions. Over the next few months, we'll be
detailing approach maps using Google Earth so that you can see exactly
where the climbs are and how to reach them. Utilizing Google
Earth is free and allows users to rotate the maps and print them from
any aspect they choose. It should help you get to the climbs more
easily than ever.
Google Earth can be downloaded for free at www.googleearth.com.
Quality Ratings
Toofast uses the "four paw" rating system. She
thinks that a three star system feels too narrow.
You will
notice that her ratings are skewed toward the positive side.
The reason for this is to provide a broader range in
describing
higher-quality routes. We won't be spending time
detailing poor-quality routes; the only time you'll see them
included here is to avoid confusion if lines are closely packed
together or crossing one another.
Below is a description of each "ranking" on the four paw scale:
 Average.
Good.
Outstanding.
These are must-do routes, and are characterized by terrific
climbing,
position, and views.
Undisputed
Classic.
Quality rock througout, excellent climbing, stunning position and
exposure, fabulous
views, and visually striking.
Difficulty Ratings
I have climbed each route in Toofast's Topos multiple times and
carefully assigned difficulty ratings to them so they compare
reasonably with routes of similar difficulty throughout the country.
When in doubt, I have leaned toward a higher difficulty rating in an
effort to avoid sandbagging newcomers unfamiliar with the routes.
PDF format
- To print full-page,
full-color topos in one easy step, download Toofast's Topo, available in universal PDF format, and pre-formatted to automatically fit whatever size paper you've set up your printer with.
- If you want to reduce the size of the topos, simply change the print size settings in Adobe Acrobat Reader.
Topos currently available for download
Sheepshead
New route to
the right of Stampede. 5.9/5.10a, 5 pitches. Route
Description Toofast's Topo
Stampede! 5.11a,
7 pitches.
Bolted. Wrangle yourself
up 7 excellent pitches face and slab climbing. A rack of gear
won't do you any good on this one, you gotta follow the steel.
Route
Description. Toofast's Topo (Updated 3/2009)
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Sheepshead W Face (Updated 12/09): Toofast's Topo Photoguide
Includes the following routes:
Ewephoria.
5.8, 5 Pitches. Mixed, approximately
70%
bolt protected. Slabs and face climbing. Finish on
the last
pitch of "Too Tough to Die" for a nearly perfect climb. Route
Description.
Unknown climb left of Ewephoria.
5.10+, 5 Pitches. Mixed, approximately 50%
bolt protected. Slabs, hard face, and crack climbing. Route Description
Unknown climb left of Too Tough to Die.
5.10+, 5 Pitches. Almost all bolt protected. Mostly face & slab climbing on the easier side of 5.10. Route Description
The Climb Too Tough to Die.
5.10, 6 Pitches. Mixed, approximately
70%
bolt protected. Chimney, crack, slab, and face climbing.
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Sheepshead SW Face: Toofast's Topo Photoguide
Includes the following routes:
Absinthe of
Mallet. 5.10b, 7 pitches. Mixed,
about 50%
bolt protected. Route Description
Unknown. 5.10d. This spicy climb has several runouts
on difficult terrain, but is of very good quality for three pitches.
The upper pitches are not as good, so it is suggested that you
join one of the other routes to finish.
Unknown. 5.10a/b, 6 pitches. Excellent climbing up
the crack and chimney system to the left of Peacemaker. About 50%
bolt protected, but requires a full rack. Route Description
Peacemaker.
5.10a, bolted.
A few
traditional
placements make some of the runouts easier. Route Description
Unknown 5.10, 5 pitches. Bolted line forced between Peacemaker and Ides. Not reccomended.
Ides of
Middlemarch 5.10b, 5 pitches.
Mixed, about 10% bolt protected. Route Description
Unknown. 5.10-. Starts left of Ides of Middlemarch,
crosses it, then continues along its right side to the big ledge.
80% bolt protected
Unknown (probably Mad Cow Disease). 5.11-R, 6 pitches.
Fun, more difficult climbing, with some easy runouts.
Almost all bolt protected.
NOTE: There are several additional routes on this face that have yet to be detailed on this topo.
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Cochise Dome
What's
My Line. 5.6, 3 pitches.
Trad. Among
the best climbs in the Stronghold! This unique
climb protects almost entirely by tying off
“chickenheads” – saddle-horn like
features in the
rock. Route
Description Toofast's Topo
Squaretop
Cragaholic's
Dream. 5.10c, 6 pitches.
Trad. Includes crack, face, and slab climbing. Route
Description.
Toofast's Topo (updated 2/08)
Rockfellow Area
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End Pinnacle West Face (updated 2/09): Toofast's Topo
Includes the following routes:
Endgame.
5.10b, 5 pitches. Pitches 1-3 shown on this topo. The
final two pitches are found on the End Pinnacle SW face topo. Two
variations to this climb are also detailed on the topo. Route Description
Welcome to the Machine. 5.10c, 4 pitches.
You will need the End Pinnacle SW face topo to reach the summit via Endgame or Welcome to the Machine. Route Description
Poetry in Motion. 5.10aR, 4 pitches.
This old-school runout climb will keep your attention! It's
fun and worthwhile, but make sure you're climbing solidly before
attempting it. Route Description
Unknown. 5.11a, 5 pitches. A very fun route with some
interesting, challenging climbing. All bolted. Route Description
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End Pinnacle SW face (updated 11/08): Toofast's Topo
Includes the following routes:
Days of Future
Past, 5.8A0 or 5.10a. Among the best climbs in the
Stronghold! Outstanding
climb going from chimney to handcrack to necky slab and face
climbing. Multiple runouts. For competent leaders
only at the grade! Route
Description.
Jimmywacky. 5.11d, 2 pitches. Mixed.
Excellent, committing climbing up the green arete to the left of
Days. Continue to the top via Endgame or Days. Route Description
Endgame.
5.10b, 5 pitches. Pitches 4-5 shown on this topo. The
first three pitches are on the End Pinnacle West Face topo. Route Description
NOTE: There are several additional routes on this face that have yet to be detailed on this topo.
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Troll Wall, Mount Lemmon
Wall
of the
Trundling Trolls-
while this wall is not in Cochise Stronghold, it is one of the best
crags in Southern Arizona and should not be missed!
This topo details all but one of the bottom pitches; the upper
pitches are being added as time allows. Be sure to check the
route descriptions on MountainProject.com as well, and you'll be
able to enjoy all
this amazing wall has to offer! Updated 9/23/09
To
help you locate routes quickly, we have added "photoguides" -
photographs of the wall with the routes marked. The photoguide is
an easy way to find the route; all of the beta can be found on the
topos.
Troll Wall Left
Side (Topo)
Troll Wall Left Side (Photoguide)
Troll Wall Right
Side (Topo)
Troll Wall Right Side (Photoguide)
Further Stronghold Suggestions / Upcoming Topos
***Moby Dick. 5.8, 5
Pitches. Trad. Slab, chickenheads, face climbing,
awesome summit. Route
Description.
**The Wasteland.
5.8, 5 Pitches. Trad.
Wandery
route with complex descent. For competent leaders only at the
grade. Route
Description.
**Warpath. 5.9, 4
pitches. Trad. Runout
in places, tricky route finding and some tricky pro. Route
Description.
**Dreamscape
Buttress. 5.9, 5 pitches.
Trad. A very
nice climb with lots of face climbing and route finding. A
bit
bold. Route
Description.
***Mystery of the
Desert. 5.9, 5 pitches. Mixed,
about 40%
bolt protected. Fun, straightforward climbing. Route
Description.
***Warpaint. 5.10c,
5 pitches. Almost all bolts,
difficult
slab on very nice rock. A classic Stronghold climb.
A light
rack is needed for pitches 2 and 3. Route
Description.
Warning!
Dogs can't draw perfect topos!
Errors may exist in difficulty
ratings, availability of protection, bolt counts, number of cats, etc. Rely
on
your experience and training, not these topos, for your safety.
By using this dog's topos, you agree
not to hold her (or her owner) responsible anything bad that
happens.
Note that Toofast's
Topos are
constantly being upgraded for corrections, changes in
routes, new
variations, seasonal fleas & ticks, etc. If you downloaded a topo previously, check
the
date listed to the current topo to make sure you have the most
up-to-date version.
Want to suggest a climb to be included in Toofast's Topos?
Notice something that needs to be corrected? Use
the "contact" link above.
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