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Toofast's Topos:  

Topos for Classic Southern Arizona Rock Climbs - Mount Lemmon and Cochise Stronghold

-Scroll down for free downloadable topos!

Below is a list of excellent climbs in southern Arizona. This is just a short list, but it will be added to as time allows.

What's with the dog picture?  Her name is Too-fast. She has many talents, including drawing remarkably good topos.  She is producing up-to-date, super-clear topos Cochise Stronghold classics.  

Warning!  Dogs can't draw perfect topos!  Errors may exist in difficulty ratings, availability of protection, bolt counts, etc.  Rely on your experience and training, not these topos, for your safety.  By using this dog's topos, you agree not to hold her (or her owner) responsible anything bad that happens. 

Toofast's topos are undisputedly the best-quality canine-authored topos for Cochise Stronghold.  

Toofast's Mission:

Free, readily available, great-quality topos of the best climbs in Cochise Stronghold.  And maybe a couple on Mount Lemmon, too.

Want to suggest a climb to be included in Toofast's Topos?  Use the "contact" link above.  

Over 2000 Downloads!!!

As of June 27, TT has had 2,050 downloads!  This number is quite surprising to me as the site's been up only since December.  TT started with just three topos back then - Cragaholic's Dream, What's My Line, and Ewephoria.  I was kind of surprised to break 100 downloads in the first month.  

Popularity of this site has increased significantly as more topos have been added.  Two of the topos - both for the Troll Wall - were a huge amount of work and delayed the production of topos for multipitch classic lines in the Stronghold.  In mid-May, TT crossed the 1300 mark.  Unfortunately, we hit a delay due to a burglary at our home, which included the computer that the topos were being made with.  Not to worry, we had backups all but the most recent topos we were working on, and I'm happy to report that we're now ahead of the point we were at before the computer was stolen.  

Current projects:  It's hot in the Stronghold right now, but Toofast is plunking away at some new topos anyway.  She just completed a difficult topo for a new route on the Sheepshead, and we're currently planning to release several more for the Sheepshead and surrounding areas in the early fall.  If the weather permits, we may be able to work on these topos earlier.

Note that Toofast's Topos are constantly being upgraded for corrections, changes in routes, new variations, etc.  If you downloaded a topo previously, check the date listed to the current topo to make sure you have the most up-to-date version.  

Want to suggest a climb to be included in Toofast's Topos?  Notice something that needs to be corrected?  Use the "contact" link above.

Quality Ratings

Toofast doesn't waste her time drawing topos of poor routes.  So her rating system is skewed toward the positive side:

-- Very Good Route.  This route is completely worth the time spent in driving and approach.  The quality of the climbing makes for a great day. 

--- Outstanding Route.  A must-do for anyone spending significant time in the area.  Characterized by terrific climbing, position, and views.

---- Undisputed Classic.  Given only to the very best climbs in the area.  Excellent climbing, perfect environment, fabulous views, visually striking.  The must-do climbs for those who will be in the area for a very short time.


Suggested Climbs & Topos:

Cochise Stronghold

----  What's My Line.  5.6, 3 pitches.  Trad.  Among the best climbs in the Stronghold!  This unique climb protects almost entirely by tying off “chickenheads” – saddle-horn like features in the rock.  Route Description.  ***Toofast's Topo***

---  Ewephoria.  5.8, 5 Pitches.  Mixed, approximately 70% bolt protected.  Slabs and face climbing.  Finish on the last pitch of "Too Tough to Die" for a nearly perfect climb.  Route Description.  ***Toofast's Topo***  (Updated 3/18/2008).

***Moby Dick.  5.8, 5 Pitches.  Trad.  Slab, chickenheads, face climbing, awesome summit.  Route Description.

**The Wasteland.  5.8, 5 Pitches.  Trad.  Wandery route with complex descent.  For competent leaders only at the grade.  Route Description.

****Days of Future Past, 5.8A0 or 5.10a.  Trad.  Among the best climbs in the Stronghold!  Outstanding climb going from chimney to handcrack to necky slab and face climbing.  Multiple runouts.  For competant leaders only at the grade!  Route Description.

**Warpath.  5.9, 4 pitches.  Trad.  Runout in places, tricky route finding and some tricky pro.  Route Description.

**Dreamscape Buttress.  5.9, 5 pitches.  Trad.  A very nice climb with lots of face climbing and route finding.  A bit bold.  Route Description.

***Mystery of the Desert.  5.9, 5 pitches.  Mixed, about 40% bolt protected.  Fun, straightforward climbing.  Route Description.

--- NEW TOPO!  Unknown route to the right of Stampede.  5.9, 5 pitches.   ***Toofast's Topo***   Route Description

-- Peacemaker.  5.10a, bolted.  A few traditional placements make some of the runouts easier.  Sustained.  ***Toofast's Topo***

***The Climb Too Tough to Die.  5.10b, Mixed, about 60% bolt protected.  

--- Absinthe of Mallet.  5.10b, 6 pitches.  Mixed, about 50% bolt protected.  Route Description.  ***Toofast's Topo***

***Endgame.  5.10b, 5 pitches.  Bolted, a few placements can be made.  A ¾” cam and a few stoppers are helpful.  Route Description.  

---  Cragaholic's Dream.  5.10c, 6 pitches.  Trad.  Includes crack, face, and slab climbing. ***Toofast's Topo***   (updated 2/08)  Route Description.

***Warpaint.  5.10c, 5 pitches.  Almost all bolts, difficult slab on very nice rock.  A classic Stronghold climb.  A light rack is needed for pitches 2 and 3.  Route Description.

--- Stampede!  5.11a, 7 pitches.  Bolted.  Wrangle yourself up 7 excellent pitches face and slab climbing.  A rack of gear won't do you any good on this one, you gotta follow the steel.  Route Description.  ***Toofast's Topo***


Mount Lemmon

--- Wall of the Trundling Trolls - one of the best crags on the mountain!  These two highly detailed topos are being updated through the summer.  These topos contain about 45 routes ranging from 5.7 to 5.12.  Download the current versions whenever you like!
Troll Wall Left Side (updated 6/28/08)
Troll Wall Right Side (updated 6/28/08)  

R-4.  5.9, 1 pitch.  Great face and crack climbing, 150'.

Desire.  5.10b, 1 pitch, 180'.  Amazing face/arete with some mild overhangs.  Pretty run-out!

Mean Mistreater.  5.10b, 2 pitches, mostly face climbing.  Runout at the beginning of pitch 2.

Cripple Creek.  5.10b, 3 pitches.  Pitch 2 is one of the nicest pitches on Mount Lemmon.

Warm and Free to Rapture of the Steep.  5.10c, 5 pitches.  Trad.  A marvelous linkup at the Reef of Rocks.  See Squeezing the Lemmon II, pages 259 and 261.

Business as Usual.  5.10d, 1 pitch.  Trad.  A stellar climb.  150' of thoughtful, provoking climbing.  Just enough gear to avoid huge falls but still keep things interesting.

Lizard Marmalade Direct.  5.10d.  Trad.  Amazing ... EFR calls this the all time Tucson classic.  Takes more gear than you'll ever need.  Sustained, interesting climbing.  

Silent Running to Voodoo Child.  5.11a, 5 pitches.  Mixed, approximately 20% bolt protected.  Several runouts.

Other Locations

Cherry Jam.  5.8, 6 pitches.  Trad.  Located on the north side of the Catalinas, this climb has a very long approach, but is absolutely teriffic.  The crux is harder than its 5.8 rating, but has bombproof protection with a #4 camalot.  Route Description.


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