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Toofast's Topos:
Topos for Classic
Southern Arizona
Rock Climbs - Mount Lemmon and Cochise Stronghold
Scroll down for free
downloadable topos!
Below is a list of
excellent climbs in southern Arizona. This is just a short list, but it
will be added to as time allows.
What's with the dog picture? Her name is
Too-fast. She has many talents, including drawing remarkably good
topos. She is producing up-to-date, super-clear topos Cochise
Stronghold classics.
Warning!
Dogs can't draw perfect topos!
Errors may exist in difficulty
ratings, availability of protection, bolt counts, etc. Rely
on
your experience and training, not these topos, for your safety.
By using this dog's topos, you agree
not to hold her (or her owner) responsible anything bad that
happens.
Toofast's
topos are undisputedly the best-quality canine-authored topos
for Cochise Stronghold.
Toofast's Mission:
Free, readily available, great-quality topos of the best
climbs in Cochise Stronghold. And maybe a couple on Mount
Lemmon,
too.
Want to suggest a climb to be included in Toofast's Topos?
Use the "contact" link above.
Over 2000 Downloads!!!
As of
June 27, TT
has had 2,050 downloads! This number is quite surprising to
me as
the site's been up only since December. TT started with just
three topos back then - Cragaholic's Dream, What's My Line, and
Ewephoria. I was kind of surprised to break 100 downloads in
the
first month.
Popularity of this site has increased significantly as more topos have
been added. Two of the topos - both for the Troll Wall - were
a
huge amount of work and delayed the production of topos
for multipitch classic lines in the Stronghold. In
mid-May,
TT crossed the 1300 mark. Unfortunately, we hit a delay due
to a
burglary at our home, which included the computer that the topos were
being made with. Not to worry, we had backups all but the
most
recent topos we were working on, and I'm happy to report that we're now
ahead of the point we were at before the computer was stolen.
Current projects: It's hot in the Stronghold right now, but
Toofast is plunking away at
some new topos anyway. She just completed a difficult topo
for a
new route on the Sheepshead, and we're currently planning to release
several more for the Sheepshead and surrounding areas in the early
fall. If the weather permits, we may be able to work on these
topos earlier.
Note that Toofast's
Topos are
constantly being upgraded for corrections, changes in
routes, new
variations, etc. If you downloaded a topo previously, check
the
date listed to the current topo to make sure you have the most
up-to-date version.
Want to suggest a climb to be included in Toofast's Topos?
Notice something that needs to be corrected? Use
the "contact" link above.
Quality Ratings
Toofast doesn't waste her time drawing topos of poor routes.
So her rating system is skewed toward the positive side:
 Very Good Route.
This route is completely worth the time
spent in driving and approach. The quality of the climbing
makes
for a great day.
  Outstanding Route.
A must-do for anyone spending
significant time in the area. Characterized by terrific
climbing,
position, and views.
   Undisputed Classic.
Given only to the very best climbs in
the area. Excellent climbing, perfect environment, fabulous
views, visually striking. The must-do climbs for those who
will
be in the area for a very short time.
Suggested Climbs & Topos:
Cochise Stronghold
   What's
My Line. 5.6, 3 pitches.
Trad. Among
the best climbs in the Stronghold! This unique
climb protects almost entirely by tying off
“chickenheads” – saddle-horn like
features in the
rock. Route
Description. ***Toofast's
Topo***
  Ewephoria.
5.8, 5 Pitches. Mixed, approximately
70%
bolt protected. Slabs and face climbing. Finish on
the last
pitch of "Too Tough to Die" for a nearly perfect climb. Route
Description. ***Toofast's
Topo***
(Updated 3/18/2008).
***Moby Dick. 5.8, 5
Pitches. Trad. Slab, chickenheads, face climbing,
awesome summit. Route
Description.
**The Wasteland.
5.8, 5 Pitches. Trad.
Wandery
route with complex descent. For competent leaders only at the
grade. Route
Description.
****Days of Future
Past, 5.8A0 or 5.10a. Trad. Among the best climbs in the
Stronghold! Outstanding
climb going from chimney to handcrack to necky slab and face
climbing. Multiple runouts. For competant leaders
only at the grade! Route
Description.
**Warpath. 5.9, 4
pitches. Trad. Runout
in places, tricky route finding and some tricky pro. Route
Description.
**Dreamscape
Buttress. 5.9, 5 pitches.
Trad. A very
nice climb with lots of face climbing and route finding. A
bit
bold. Route
Description.
***Mystery of the
Desert. 5.9, 5 pitches. Mixed,
about 40%
bolt protected. Fun, straightforward climbing. Route
Description.
  NEW TOPO! Unknown route to
the right of Stampede. 5.9, 5 pitches. ***Toofast's Topo***
Route
Description
 Peacemaker. 5.10a, bolted.
A few
traditional
placements make some of the runouts easier. Sustained.
***Toofast's Topo***
***The
Climb Too Tough to Die. 5.10b, Mixed, about 60% bolt
protected.
  Absinthe of
Mallet. 5.10b, 6 pitches. Mixed,
about 50%
bolt protected. Route
Description. ***Toofast's Topo***
***Endgame. 5.10b, 5
pitches. Bolted, a few placements can be made. A
¾” cam and a few stoppers are helpful. Route
Description.
  Cragaholic's
Dream. 5.10c, 6 pitches.
Trad. Includes crack, face, and slab climbing. ***Toofast's
Topo***
(updated 2/08) Route
Description.
***Warpaint. 5.10c,
5 pitches. Almost all bolts,
difficult
slab on very nice rock. A classic Stronghold climb.
A light
rack is needed for pitches 2 and 3. Route
Description.
  Stampede! 5.11a, 7 pitches.
Bolted. Wrangle yourself
up 7 excellent pitches face and slab climbing. A rack of gear
won't do you any good on this one, you gotta follow the steel.
Route
Description. ***Toofast's Topo***
Mount Lemmon
  Wall
of the
Trundling Trolls
- one of the best crags on the mountain! These two highly
detailed topos are being updated through the summer. These
topos
contain about 45 routes ranging from 5.7 to 5.12. Download
the
current versions whenever you like!
Troll Wall Left
Side (updated 6/28/08)
Troll Wall Right
Side (updated 6/28/08)
R-4.
5.9, 1 pitch. Great face and crack climbing, 150'.
Desire.
5.10b, 1 pitch, 180'. Amazing face/arete with some
mild overhangs. Pretty run-out!
Mean Mistreater.
5.10b, 2 pitches, mostly face climbing. Runout at the
beginning of pitch 2.
Cripple Creek.
5.10b, 3 pitches. Pitch 2 is one
of the nicest pitches on Mount Lemmon.
Warm and Free
to Rapture of the Steep. 5.10c, 5
pitches. Trad. A marvelous linkup at the Reef of
Rocks. See
Squeezing the Lemmon II, pages 259 and 261.
Business as
Usual. 5.10d, 1 pitch.
Trad. A stellar climb. 150' of thoughtful,
provoking climbing. Just enough gear to avoid huge falls but
still keep things interesting.
Lizard
Marmalade Direct. 5.10d. Trad.
Amazing ... EFR calls this the all time Tucson classic.
Takes more gear than you'll ever need. Sustained,
interesting climbing.
Silent Running to Voodoo
Child. 5.11a, 5
pitches.
Mixed, approximately 20% bolt protected. Several runouts.
Other Locations
Cherry Jam. 5.8,
6 pitches.
Trad.
Located on the
north side of the Catalinas, this climb has a very long approach, but
is absolutely teriffic. The crux is harder than its 5.8
rating,
but has bombproof protection with a #4 camalot. Route
Description.


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