Bolt replacement in Southern Arizona

Southern Arizona has a large number of classic lines established by outstanding climbers such as Steve Grossman, John Steiger, Ray Ringle, Jim Waugh, Paul Davidson, and Peter Noebels.

Some of these routes now have hardware badly in need of replacement. If you plan on replacing hardware here, please keep the following in mind:

As a courtesy, please double check with the first ascent party before replacing bolts.
Re-use the hole from the existing bolt if at all possible.
Install stainless steel hardware.
If possible, please use sleeve bolts to facilitate future replacement.
Drill a new hole only as a last resort. Remove the old bolt and completely fill the old hole.
Please do not replace bolts that are still in good condition.
Preseve the rock in the best condition possible. (Avoid scarring the rock with hammer strikes, crowbars, etc.)
Stamp the year on the hanger or report the replacement in a public forum.

Finally, consider your experience. It would be best if folks who have been climbing and placing bolts for many years take care of replacement. This will minimize errors.

Please see the ASCA website for further information.

Bolt replaced on Helms Deep (Rappel Rock, Mt. Lemmon, AZ). The hole was drilled to 1/2" and a stainless steel sleeve bolt supplied by the ASCA was used to replace this.

Botched bolt "replacement". The old bolt was not removed, the old hole was not utilized, and the new bolt hole was not deep enough, requiring the use of washers.